Daily Care of Weaned Kittens

Summary

The daily care of weaned kittens requires several essential tasks. These include weighing, providing fresh food and water, cleaning the litter box and more. Accustoming kittens to grooming and different enrichment opportunities will help them be well-adjusted.

Daily Care of Weaned Kittens

Note: Due to wide variations in kittens’ development, it is impossible to state an age at which all kittens will be weaned. Kittens typically are not considered weaned until they are able to eat and process solid food as their sole source of nutrients. Kittens who are 4–5 weeks of age will often start eating solid food on their own, but if given the chance, they may also continue to nurse. Kittens 4–5 weeks old and not yet exclusively eating wet and dry food are not considered weaned and are not included in this section. See Weaning Kittens Topic to learn more about the weaning process and how to care for kittens in that stage.

Weaned Kittens Daily Activities

It is important to establish a routine for kittens. It helps them feel safe and confident when they know what to expect.

• Weighing Kittens. Weigh kittens at least once a day at the same time every day. Using a digital scale, weigh and record their weights in a chart. Ideally, kittens gain weight daily, but their weights may occasionally drop or remain stagnant, which is not a concern for a single day or two if they act normally in every other way. However, if they are not acting well or the weight loss or failure to gain persists for more than three days, contact a veterinarian or the shelter or rescue organization if you are fostering with one.

  Healthy Weaned Kitten Weight Chart

  Age	Weight in Pounds
  6–8 weeks	1.5–2.0
  9–11 weeks	2.25–2.75
  12–14 weeks	3–3.5
  15–17 weeks	3.75–4.25

• Feeding Kittens. What you feed weaned kittens and how often you feed them depends on their age and physical condition.
  • Dry food. A dry kitten diet should be available at all times.
  • Canned food. If weaned and 5–6 weeks old, feed a gruel of canned kitten food mixed with warm water three to four times daily.
    If six to eight weeks of age, feed ¼ of a 3-ounce can of food per kitten three to four times daily.
    If older than eight weeks, feed ¼ can of food two to three times daily.
    These amounts can be adjusted according to the kitten’s appetite and weight gain.
    Read canned food labels for calorie amounts and suggested feedings. Monitor kittens’ weight and stool consistency and adjust food intake amounts or frequency if needed.
  • Ideally, feed at the same time every day. Do not just set the wet food down and leave the kittens unsupervised. Kittens need to be monitored while eating canned food and cleaned immediately after.
  • It is important to ensure each kitten gets as much food as wanted. Often, one assertive kitten will push another kitten out of the way and that kitten will retreat. If this is an issue, feed the kittens separately by providing each kitten with a bowl and eating space.
  • Feeding time is an excellent opportunity for socialization; remaining with the kittens and talking softly while they eat may help them associate something good, such as wet food with human presence. Gently petting shy kittens while they are eating and distracted is a good way to accustom them to human touch.

• Cleaning Litter Boxes. Keep litter boxes clean which requires scooping several times a day, ideally after allowing time for kittens to defecate after every feeding. Completely replace all the contents of litter boxes as needed and clean the scoop as needed. Dispose of soiled pee pads or newspaper under litter boxes and replace them. Thoroughly clean up any accidents to eliminate odors with a cat-safe odor eliminator to discourage kittens from urinating or defecating in that spot again.
• Playing with Kittens. Playing teaches kittens how to interact with other kittens/cats appropriately and helps them develop motor skills they will need as adults. Playing with kittens also helps them associate positive experiences with people and accustoms them to being handled by people. Weaned kittens will enjoy interacting with toys on their own or with you. Interactive toys help build bonds and trust with different people.
  Caution: Use laser toys occasionally, in brief play periods, and provide a food reward immediately after to avoid frustration because kittens cannot catch the dot/prey. An option is to hide a treat, lead kittens to the treat with the laser and then turn it off. Do not point the laser at the eyes; it will cause damage.
  DO NOT offer hands and feet as toys. Kittens hunt, capture and “kill” their toys—prey—by scratching, kicking and biting. Use toys with handles or wands to keep hands far from kitten mouths and claws. Bites and scratches may seem cute when kittens are young, but those behaviors can be dangerous and harder to stop once they have become a habit. Those behaviors may also make it harder for kittens to be adopted.
• Socializing Kittens. Touch kittens gently and speak to them softly when they are relaxing and sleeping. The period between two and seven weeks is the prime time frame when kittens spend the most time exploring their environment and becoming accustomed to people in it. Therefore, getting kittens used to being handled during this time is crucial to their development. At least four different people should gently handle kittens during this developmental period to help kittens positively associate with people. Interacting with kittens (and cats) for shorter times more frequently is more effective than interacting with them once or twice for a longer time as this more closely meets their socialization needs and mimics interactions that would occur in a natural setting. Research has shown that the optimum type of interaction for most kittens is being stroked and talked to simultaneously and that kittens who are handled for more than one hour per day will typically go directly to a familiar person, climb up onto their lap, purr, and either play or sleep. Kittens who have been handled less are more likely to approach and head rub the familiar person but then move away. If kittens are fearful and hiding, do not forcefully remove them from their hiding place. Instead, if you have to get them out of their hiding space, lure them with a wand-type toy or a treat. Ideally, if the area and the kitten are safe, it’s best to let kittens come out on their own to avoid reinforcing their fear. Offering food treats and lickables is a great way to help shy kittens become more comfortable with people.

Other Activities to Care for Weaned Kittens

• Scratching objects. Scratching is a normal behavior in kittens. Have a variety of scratching objects (vertical versus horizontal, cardboard versus sisal versus carpet) available that will appeal to them. Teach kittens to scratch a scratching post or pad by luring them to it with a wand toy. Move the wand toy around the post or pad to entice them to scratch it. Praise them when they use the scratching post or pad.
  Do not move their paws on the scratching pad or post to show them how to scratch. This can frighten them and make them less likely to scratch there. Never frighten kittens by yelling, hitting or squirting them with water if they scratch in inappropriate places. For example, make those inappropriate places undesirable by putting double-sided sticky tape on them. Redirect kittens to appropriate places and reward them when they use the appropriate places.
• Grooming kittens. Accustoming kittens to being groomed has several benefits. Even if kittens are short-haired, their skin and fur will benefit from grooming. Gradually accustom kittens to gentle brushing or combing so they get used to the sensation. A soft toothbrush works well around their face. Use short strokes as if their mother were licking them or they were licking themselves.
  Accustoming them to grooming also makes it easier to handle kittens, medicate them, trim their nails or be examined by a veterinarian. To this end, briefly and gently look in their mouths and gently touch or hold their paws and ears regularly.
• Bathing kittens. Consider whether kittens require a spot bath to clean the soiled areas (for example, their rear end if it is messy from diarrhea) or a full bath. Spot dry baths are preferable for a small area, and they involve wiping it gently with a warm-water-dampened paper towel or washcloth. Spot dry baths don’t involve soaking the area down to the skin. Spot wet baths involve cleaning a small area, for example the rear end, with a warm water soak down to the skin and shampooing if needed. Full wet baths involve wetting the entire kitten, minus the head, down to the skin and shampooing.
  • Prepare the room before you bring in the kitten, by assembling all your supplies, including a heat source for their post-bath bed; a brush or comb to gently remove any tangles and knots; several containers of warm water, diluted kitten-safe shampoo, absorbent paper towels and (warm) towels for drying and a hand-held hair dryer. It is helpful to make a container of slightly diluted shampoo with water. Diluted shampoo will clean well, but it is easier to rinse than undiluted shampoo.
  • Run warm water in the sink before bringing in the kitten. Once you’ve brought the kitten into the room, if it has a door, close it to prevent an escape. You can forgo the water in the sink and slowly pour warm water over the kitten using a plastic container until the kitten is thoroughly wet. Some people place kittens under the faucet or use a sprayer, but running/spraying water may frighten the kitten so be sure the water is not running too forcefully or making too much noise. Whichever method you use, place the cup, pitcher, faucet or sprayer as close to the kitten’s body as possible because less water moving around may also make it less frightening.
  • Place your thumb on the kitten’s back and the rest of your hand under the abdomen as gentle restraint. Do not scruff kittens. Never raise your voice, shake or handle kittens roughly. Talk softly to help keep the kitten calm.
  • Apply a small amount of diluted shampoo starting at the neck, and work gently down to the skin on the back, tail, genital area, back legs, groin, belly, front legs and chest. Do not apply shampoo to the head or face; use the spot-dry method for those areas while the kitten is wrapped in his warm, post-bath towel.
  • Rinse thoroughly. Gently pour warm water from the container(s) or via a quiet faucet over the kitten until all the shampoo is removed. If the kitten is unafraid of faucet water, use a gentle stream for rinsing. If the sink has a sprayer, it can be used if it flows gently, and the kitten is unafraid. Place the container, faucet or sprayer as close to the kitten’s body as possible to avoid splashes in eyes and additional sounds. ALWAYS check the water temperature before applying it to kittens and continue monitoring the water temperature during bathing and rinsing.
  • Run your hand over the kitten’s body and limbs to remove excess water.
  • Blot the kitten with absorbent towels, and when most of the water appears to be absorbed, use absorbent paper towels to remove even more remaining moisture. Then, wrap the kitten in a warm towel. Rub gently to dry the kitten thoroughly. If the towel becomes wet, use another dry, warmed towel.
  • Dry the kitten completely with a hand-held hair dryer on a low setting. Continuously move the dryer and place a hand between the dryer and the kitten to ensure that the heat does not become too intense. If the heat is too much for your hand, it is too hot for the kitten. Even pet-safe hair dryers can cause burns or dehydration if not used correctly. Rub and separate the fur while your hand is between the dryer and the kitten.
  • Return clean and dry kittens to their room. Provide a heat source and treats or a favorite toy as a reward.
  • Check the kitten’s hydration immediately after the bath and two to three hours later. It is not uncommon for kittens to become slightly dehydrated after a bath. They should already have access to fresh water, but provide them with extra water in their wet food or provide water orally with a syringe to ensure they stay well hydrated.

• Clipping nails. At about two weeks of age, and as needed thereafter, trim your kittens’ nails. Doing so will keep kittens from hurting each other when playing, climbing up pants legs and furniture, and inadvertently scratching people. Clip as many nails as possible as long as kittens accept it, and give them a treat. Stop if they become stressed and resume later. Enlisting a helper to hold the kitten while you clip the nails may make it easier. Do not scruff kittens. A good time to clip nails is while kittens are relaxed or sleepy. Do not attempt to clip nails while kittens are trying to play or are very active.

Unacceptable Handling of Kittens

Kittens and cats of any age should not be handled roughly, hit, squirted with water, chased or yelled at. Such actions will stress them and erode their trust in people.

• Scruffing (picking up and suspending by the loose skin at the back of the neck) is done by the queen to carry kittens, not to discipline or restrain them, during their first two months of age. During that time, the flexor reflex causes kittens to relax their upper body and to draw up their rear legs. The queen doesn’t harm her kitten because she knows exactly where to place her mouth and how much pressure to apply. People cannot replicate this skill. When people scruff kittens and cats, it causes pain and distress as it mimics being grabbed by their necks by predators, fighting or mating.
• Flooding is a controversial technique that involves prolonged exposure to a feared or unpleasant (from the animal’s perspective) stimulus until the animal stops reacting and quiets to an apparent relaxed state with the intent that the animal stops an undesirable behavior, such as struggling when held or acting fearful around people or noises. Flooding is stressful and can cause an animal to have a more fearful response or shut down. Flooding is not a recommended technique and should not be used.