Daily Care of Bottle Kittens

Summary

Caring for bottle kittens is more involved than caring for older kittens who can eat and eliminate on their own and regulate their body temperature. The caregiver must perform certain tasks such as keeping bottle kittens warm, preparing and feeding kitten milk replacement formula, stimulating elimination and more. Learn how to perform the essential tasks required when caring for bottle kittens.

Daily Care of Bottle Kittens

The daily care needs of bottle kittens entail many important tasks that must be performed by a trained caregiver. We do not recommend asking an untrained caregiver to care for bottle kittens as they are very fragile, and their care requirements are quite specific; a mistake can be fatal. At a minimum, caregivers should be trained on the following:

Warming Kittens

It is crucial to keep all young kittens warm, especially bottle kittens. The Supplies Needed in Caring for Kittens article provides suggestions for warming options (e.g., a SnuggleSafe, a sock with rice in it or a heating pad). Again, we emphasize that the warming device must be covered with a fleece or other non-loopy fabric, and kittens must be able to move off of it if they get too hot. An incubator is also a good option when caring for kittens less than three weeks of age.

Feeding Kittens

Kittens must be stable before feeding.

Do NOT feed a bottle kitten who is cold (hypothermia), overheated (hyperthermia), dehydrated, lethargic or unresponsive, or limp with no muscle tone. A kitten experiencing these conditions cannot metabolize the nutrients in food.

How much to feed bottle kittens depends on their weight and condition, which determines their stomach capacity. Feedings should be spaced evenly over a 24-hour period. Most bottle kittens will eat what they need and then stop. Bottle kittens should be stimulated to eliminate before and after feeding; see below, “Elimination”, for how to do this.

There are multiple options when selecting the type of nipple. The Miracle Nipple® comes in two sizes, each with an appropriate-sized hole already created. Other nipple brands have different shapes which may be more conical or rounded; however, they are not pre-cut and require an opening to be made in the nipple using an X-acto blade or very sharp scissors to slice off the nipple’s tip in small increments until you have an appropriate-sized opening. To test if the opening is the right size, put some water in the bottle, apply the cap and nipple and turn the bottle upside down. 1–2 drops should come out every 3 seconds without applying pressure to the bottle.

You may also attach a nipple to a 6 mL or smaller syringe with an oral or slip luer tip instead of a bottle. Some people prefer this as it enables them to monitor more closely how much formula the kitten consumes. With the syringe positioned at the front of kittens’ mouth, do NOT push on the plunger of the syringe, allow kittens to suck the formula on their own. This minimizes the risk of aspirating the formula into their lungs, possibly causing pneumonia which can be deadly. If a kitten is initially resistant or has difficulty latching on the nipple, often wiggling it in the mouth or pulling the bottle back to bring the nipple to the front of their mouth may aid them in obtaining a firm latch on the nipple.

If kittens are too weak to suckle or refuse the nipple, position the syringe (with or without a nipple) on the side of the kitten’s mouth at the cheek pouch, and face the syringe towards the opposite cheek (not the throat). Push the plunger slowly, providing formula a drop at a time (approximately 0.1 mL or less depending on the size or general strength of the kitten). Allow kittens to swallow before providing more formula so that the formula does not end up in their lungs, and risk causing pneumonia which can be deadly.

The same bottle or syringe can be used for every healthy kitten in the same litter. However, if a kitten is sick, use a separate bottle or syringe for that kitten, and label that bottle or syringe with a permanent marker.

Kitten Milk Replacement Formula

Feed kittens only fresh formula. Even though many formula brands say that mixed formula can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours, the kittens often notice a difference and are reluctant to take formula that is more than 12 hours old. If possible, mix fresh formula for each feeding or only make enough for two feedings so extra formula isn’t stored for more than a few hours. Mix the formula thoroughly according to the label using a spoon, whisk, or shake the mixture in a closed container with or without a blender ball to eliminate any lumps. Allow the formula to sit for at least five minutes to allow bubbles to rise to the top and dissipate to prevent kittens from getting too much air in their stomach. If there is concern about tap or well water quality, use bottled or filtered drinking water.

If the formula is not already warm, place the bottle or other small container of formula in a warm water bath. Microwaving formula is an option but it must be done with caution for multiple reasons: microwaving heats unevenly, and pockets of hot milk may be created that could burn the kitten’s mouth, while other pockets could remain cold. Nutrients/probiotics may be damaged or destroyed if they become too hot. If the formula is microwaved, invert the bottle several times to mix the milk and eliminate hot and cold areas. Do not shake as this will reintroduce air bubbles into the mix. Then, test the temperature by dribbling a few drops of formula out of the bottle and onto your wrist. It should feel warm, but not hot.

Feeding Techniques

If using a syringe, point the tip upwards, flick the syringe with a finger to cause air bubbles to rise to the top. Slowly push the plunger to remove the air and have formula in the tip. Feed kittens, and immediately refrigerate any unused formula in a sealed container.

If any formula remains in the bottle after feeding, remove the nipple and cap, rinse them well, put plastic wrap over the bottle opening, replace the clean nipple and cap and refrigerate. If using a syringe, throw away any leftover formula still in the syringe after feeding, and clean the syringe and nipple.

Note: Caution should be used when reheating/refrigerating formula too many times. It is best to warm only what is expected to be eaten during one meal.

Allowing kittens to nurse with a nipple attached to a bottle or syringe is the recommended method of daily feeding a healthy kitten. Let kittens set the pace at which they eat. Some will eat quickly; others want to take their time. Don’t squeeze the bottle or syringe to force kittens to nurse. Kittens should be fed in a prone position on their stomachs, never on their backs.

To bottle feed kittens, place them on a fleece or another soft surface to support their chest at an appropriate angle and encourage natural kneading behavior, positioning them on their stomach (prone) and up to a 45-degree angle. Align the nipple with the kitten’s mouth so there is only formula and no air at the nipple and the closest part of the bottle. Place one hand over the kitten’s head and use your thumb and middle finger on either side of their cheeks to support the head and to maintain a correct bottle angle. This finger placement will also help to verify that kittens are swallowing. Some feeders also like to place another finger softly against the kitten’s throat to feel them swallowing.

Kitten Not Nursing With Nipple

If a kitten is not nursing with the nipple, there could be multiple reasons. Some reasons may be straightforward such as:

• The kitten is not yet hungry or may have to urinate or defecate.
• The formula may be too warm or too cool for the kitten’s preference.
• The cap of the bottle may be screwed on too tightly making it difficult for the kitten to suckle as a ‘vacuum effect’ is created.

Other possible causes are much more serious, such as hypothermia, hypoglycemia, dehydration; illness; a cleft palate or other birth defect affecting the mouth, neck or throat; anorexia; poor suckle reflex; or injury. In those cases, kittens must be stabilized first and tube feeding (delivering formula directly into the kitten’s stomach via a tube) may be necessary.

This resource does not describe how to tube feed in detail, as it is best learned in person from someone experienced and proficient in the skill and in teaching others. This includes knowing and teaching safety checks: how long the tube should be, how to know that the tube is in the stomach rather than the lungs, and other important information such as how much formula should be given and how to withdraw the tube correctly to avoid aspiration. Written “how-to” documents or internet videos are insufficient for teaching this skill and when relied on alone may cause harm or even death to kittens if done incorrectly. See Tube Feedings for Kittens.

When a kitten appears to have finished suckling, take a break. Use this time to stimulate the kitten to urinate, defecate or burp before offering another helping. The kitten may or may not want to eat more at this point. If other kittens are in the litter, feed them and then circle back to each kitten for “seconds.” When kittens do not want to continue nursing, do not force them to take more, even if formula remains in the bottle.

It is important to make sure that kittens are receiving appropriate caloric intake for their age and body weight, but there is no one perfect feeding schedule. Common approaches to feeding kittens include:

• Feed kittens on a schedule, waking them if necessary.
• Allow kittens to sleep, feeding them when they indicate they are hungry (including vocalizing, restlessness, or suckling on something or someone).

This second approach requires caregivers to monitor kittens at all times to see activity or hear kitten sounds. Monitoring includes sleeping lightly enough to hear any sounds indicating kittens are awake. Even when waking hourly to check kittens, caregivers may miss periods of activity, indicating hunger. In addition, some kittens may not indicate they are hungry; they may be in a debilitated state which could look like sleeping, and they cannot move or vocalize. It is the caregiver’s responsibility to ensure kittens get nutrition before their blood sugar drops to dangerous levels. Therefore, regular monitoring and appropriate intervals between feedings are required.

Burping a Kitten

If kittens are not eating much, it may be because they have air in their stomach. Burp them by holding them against your palm while gently rubbing or tapping their back and then their belly with one or two fingers. Try feeding them again. Burping should also be performed after each feeding, but not every kitten will need to burp after every feeding. If they have not gotten air in their stomach while suckling, they may not burp. Often, burping naturally occurs while aiding a kitten in eliminating urine or feces after a feeding. For this reason, kittens should remain in a prone or upright position while being stimulated to urinate or defecate. Do not turn them on their backs.

Elimination in Kittens

Kittens under four weeks of age cannot urinate or defecate on their own and kittens without their mother must be stimulated to do so by a caregiver before and/or after every feeding. With the kittens in a belly-down position and their body at a 45 degree angle, use soft toilet paper, facial tissues, or cosmetic pads to provide a gentle and continuous circular movement contacting the anus and genital area. Avoid moving the tissue across the skin in order not to irritate the skin. As mentioned in ‘Burping’ above, do NOT turn kittens on their back to stimulate them because if they burp, they could aspirate milk fluid into their lungs. In addition, kittens could suffer urine scald if they are stimulated while positioned on their backs and the urine falls onto their skin. Kittens should urinate with every stimulation. Their urine color should be very pale yellow to colorless if they are sufficiently hydrated. Darker urine may be a cause for concern. Check the kitten’s hydration and supplement as needed. Sometimes, though, the darker color may be due to some feces being picked up by the tissue along with the urine. So always make sure the kitten’s anus and fur around the area is clean and the urine color can be accurately assessed.

Kittens under four weeks of age typically defecate only once every 12–24 hours; it could sometimes take as long as 36 hours for the first bowel movement if the kitten has not eaten for a day or two or on a regular basis. Normal feces should be light to dark brown and of toothpaste consistency. Note: Kittens fed Breeder’s Edge® Foster Care™ often have an orange/yellow tinge to their feces that is normal and should not be a cause for concern if the kittens otherwise appear healthy and act normal.

If a kitten has not defecated in 24 to 36 hours, stimulate for two to three minutes, rub their abdomen, place them in a warm water “butt bath” and stimulate their anus in the warm water. Most kittens that have minor constipation will usually defecate at this time. However, if they are straining to defecate, seek advice from a veterinarian or the shelter’s or rescue’s designated contact.

Keeping Kittens Clean

It is extremely important not to allow milk or medications to remain on a kitten’s face or fur; formula is very difficult to remove once it has dried. Use slightly moist cotton balls or gauze to clean kittens’ faces gently after each feeding. In addition, cleaning their faces mimics what a mother would do and provides kittens with physical and emotional comfort. A toothbrush is a useful tool to help groom kittens and release endorphins. Kittens should be as clean as if they were with an attentive queen, which may require cleaning with water, unscented baby wipes or bathing.

Weighing Kittens and Recording Their Weight

Weigh kittens at least once daily and ideally two times a day. It is best to weigh them before and after each feeding to ensure they are consuming enough formula to gain weight daily. Record their weights and how many times they urinated and defecated. Note anything unusual about their urine and feces (consistency, color, odor), discharges and behaviors.

Healthy Neonatal Kitten Weight Chart

Age	Weight in Grams	Weight in Ounces
0–1 week	50–150	1.76–5.29
1–2 weeks	150–250	5.29–8.81
2–3 weeks	250–350	8.81–12.35
3–4 weeks	350–450	12.35–15.87

 

Cleaning the Kitten Feeding Supplies

Keeping supplies (bottles, nipples, feeding tubes and associated syringes, etc.) clean is of utmost importance to prevent unnecessary exposure to bacteria and other pathogens. Supplies should be completely rinsed using warm water after each feeding and washed with soap and water at least once daily. Be sure to rinse all items well. Syringes should be rinsed after each feeding and replaced every two to three feedings. Store clean supplies in a clean zip-lock bag. Some suggest taking the additional step of storing supplies in the refrigerator to inhibit bacterial growth.

Between litters and whenever illness is a concern, supplies should be completely replaced if possible or additional cleaning and sanitizing steps taken. Boiling or autoclaving are both options. Check the manufacturer’s instructions to ascertain the appropriate time and temperatures. See Minimizing Disease Transmission Topic for information about cleaning, disinfecting and sanitizing.

Telling Bottle Kittens Apart

If two or more kittens are hard to tell apart, they need to be distinguished to record their weights and other medical or behavioral issues accurately. There are many ways to identify kittens safely; some of the more common methods are described below.

• Paper bands, purchased from animal care websites, can be cut to size to fit tiny bottle kittens. Another option is to take the smallest width blue painter’s tape or another similar tape, cut an appropriate length and fold it on itself (sticky side inside) to a small enough width, leaving a small sticky tab at the end to use to fasten the collar. Place the collar around the kitten’s neck and secure both ends of the tape. All collars should be snug enough to prevent limbs, paws or jaws from getting caught in the collar but not so tight that they cannot easily move circularly around the neck. The snugness of the collar should be checked daily to ensure it is not getting too tight. Collars should be replaced or expanded as the kitten grows or if they become excessively soiled.
• Carefully clipping a small patch of fur on the back of one kitten is a way to distinguish that kitten from an identical kitten. If more kittens need to be distinguished from their littermates, choose different locations for the clips. As fur grows, these clips will need to be refreshed.
• A small dot in the inner ear made with a nontoxic marker can be used to distinguish one kitten from another and different colors can be used if more than two kittens are identical. Colored dots will need to be replenished every day or two.
• It is NOT recommended to use human nail polish to aid in identifying kittens, as fumes may be irritating or toxic, and the dried polish can cause clumps of fur to fall out. There are some pet-safe polishes used by groomers, which may be an option. If used, do not use on thin-furred areas; use a minimal amount on fur only; use a color that does not resemble colors of blood, feces or vomit.

As kittens grow and their personalities become more apparent, they often become distinguishable by nuances and behaviors, and the methods described above may become unnecessary.

Transitioning Bottle Kittens to the Litter Box

Begin introducing bottle kittens to a litter box when they are 2 ½ to 3 weeks old. Some kittens will start urinating on their own at this point and you may notice some damp bedding. Put a low-sided box, such as a cardboard box that once contained small cans of pet food, in their space; you can also flatten one side so kittens just walk right in rather than stepping over even a low edge.

It is important to use only non-clumping litter with kittens. The best litter is a small, soft, unscented substrate that will not get into their mouths and onto their feet, as kittens are still very clumsy at this stage and often hit their faces on the ground/litter while moving about. Clumping litter, if swallowed, can be dangerous to kittens.

Once kittens are this age, begin stimulating them to urinate or defecate while holding them just above the litter box so they associate eliminating with the box. After initial stimulation, allow kittens to directly urinate onto the litter or leave a bit of the soiled toilet paper in the box so they also associate the smell with the box. If kittens have a bowel movement outside of the box, place it in the box for a short time so that kittens associate defecating with the box.

Bathing Kittens

Bottle kittens can be messy or infested with fleas and you may need to give them a spot bath or full bath.

You will need towels (warmed if possible), a washcloth, a roll of absorbent paper towels, a sink or bowl, a cup or pitcher, a hypoallergenic, gentle cat shampoo or mild, unscented dish detergent, and a blow dryer with low heat setting.

• It is essential to keep kittens warm throughout the bathing process.
• Choose a warm, non-drafty room to bathe them; ideally, the room should be at 80 degrees.
• Have the needed supplies at hand.
• Be prepared to move quickly.
• Place bathed, rinsed, and dried kittens in their carrier with a heating source.

Cleaning the Kitten’s Head and Face

Do not apply shampoo to the head or face; use a warm, wet washcloth to gently clean those areas while kittens are wrapped in their warm, post-bath towel.

Spot Bathing a Kitten

Clean only the areas that require bathing (for instance, paws and rear ends) by using the “full bath” process below for just the areas that need cleaning..

Bathing the Entire Kitten

• Use warm water for bathing kittens. First wet kittens under a gentle water stream and remove any excess formula, feces or litter. If kittens are frightened by the faucet water, use water in a cup or a nonbreakable pitcher to wet them.
• If bathing for fleas, use a small amount of shampoo or mild detergent to make a ring completely around the kitten’s neck to keep the fleas from moving onto their head. Then apply shampoo to the rest of the kitten’s body, except the head. Support the kitten firmly with one hand while using a washcloth or hand to apply the soap and spread it on the body. Start around the neck, and work gently down to the skin on the back, tail, genital area, back legs, groin, belly, front legs and chest.
• Rinse all the shampoo off. If kittens are not frightened by the faucet water, you can use a gentle stream for rinsing. If kittens are frightened by the faucet water, gently pour warm water from a cup or pitcher over them. Repeat this until all the shampoo or soap is removed. Place the cup, pitcher or faucet as close to the kitten’s body as possible to avoid splashing as less water moving around may be less frightening. Use a hand to wipe away excess water before blotting kittens with absorbent paper towels to remove any remaining excess water, before wrapping kittens in a warm towel.
• Rub vigorously but gently to dry the kitten. If the towel becomes wet, use another dry, warmed towel to continue drying the kitten. Then finish drying the kitten completely with a hand-held hair dryer on a low setting. Move the hair dryer around with one hand, and move your other hand along the fur to separate it and ensure you don’t burn kittens. Make sure kittens are fully dry before returning them to their warm space.